A Uruguay travel guide with passion and soul
Lovingly curated since 2013 by Karen A Higgs. If you love to experience new places that have conserved their original charm, then Uruguay is the perfect place for you.
Latest musings
From the Guru’Guay blog
Where are the best beaches in Uruguay?
A secret from North Americans and Europeans, Uruguay’s best beaches have been beloved by Argentinians and Brazilians for years.
For a few magical moments, we were in the Financial Times
Was it a dream? No. We have a screenshot that captured the kudos—us as “The best and most accurate guide to Uruguay”. #HappyDance
Uruguay looks to open cannabis to tourists
Visitors to Uruguay may soon be able to buy cannabis. The motivation, says the govt, is to remove ‘inequality’ between tourists and citizens.
An introduction to Uruguay wine country
Uruguay is the new world’s undiscovered wine gem. Plan your trip to Uruguay wine country. Tips to regions, wine tasting in Montevideo & private wine tours.
6 reasons I’m grateful I lived in Uruguay for the pandemic
Der Spiegel ranked Uruguay’s pandemic response #11 in the world. So what have I been grateful for every day of the pandemic?
How much does the Buenos Aires-Montevideo ferry cost?
As the borders open, we check out recent prices for the ferry between Buenos Aires, Argentina and the Uruguay capital, Montevideo.
Montevideo Carnival 2022 dates
Uruguay carnival is back in 2022! The world’s longest carnival returns. We’ve got the links you need about where to go and what to see.
*The* travel guidebooks to Uruguay & Montevideo
Praised by Lonely Planet, NYT and National Geographic, the Guru’Guay guides are the only Uruguay travel books on Amazon written by a local.
Why travel to Uruguay
Though barely on the radar to westerners, Argentines have been flocking to Uruguay for decades. So what kind of vacation awaits you?
7 things that I love about daily life in Uruguay
I moved to Uruguay with my family in 2000. These are some of the things that I’ve come to love about life in Uruguay—some big, some trivial.
7 things that frustrate me about daily life in Uruguay
I’m a Brit living in Uruguay. I could be living anywhere but chose life in Uruguay over two decades ago. Time to spill the beans!!
Updates for Guru’Guay Guide to Uruguay: Beaches, Ranches & Wine Country
The beauty of buying a guidebook written by a local. Post pandemic, our Uruguay travel guide is still the best resource to finding the gems.
Spanish language students can enter Uruguay
While the Uruguay borders remain closed to most travellers until Nov 1, it is possible to enter as a language student regardless of your age. Updated.
Las Cárcavas – exclusive ocean front lots close to José Ignacio
Las Cárcavas is a beach-front real estate development of exclusive sustainable ranch-style lots on the coast, close to José Ignacio, Uruguay.
Those unmistakable rural schools in Uruguay
In the 1960s, a philanthropist and an engineer set about replacing “school shacks” in the poorest, most remote parts of Uruguay. They went on to build 228.
Baco – Montevideo’s top wine restaurant
A French bistro with probably the longest wine list in the city and multiple by-the-glass choices is one of the best new Montevideo restaurants by far.
Montevideo’s Romantic Museum, aka the Marble Palace
Hugely instagramable, this tiny museum hidden in Montevideo’s old town depicts the lifestyle of Uruguay’s most affluent at the time of independence.
5 reasons to put Uruguay on your travel bucket list
The unassuming South American nation is off-the-radar to Europeans & North Americans. But Brazilians and Argentines have been flocking to Uruguay for years.
Uruguay has a new UNESCO World Heritage Site
This modest church built entirely of brick has been called “a marvel of modern architecture”—and received the world’s greatest cultural recognition.
Atlántida – beachtown & UNESCO heritage site
Fine white sands, pines, 2 mysterious structures—an eagle head & a UNESCO Heritage church. The Uruguay beach of Atlántida is just 30 mins from Montevideo.
The most unusual assistance we’ve ever provided an expat
Angela, an expat in Uruguay, contacted Guru’Guay. She’d been diagnosed with cancer and wanted our assistance to find her a…
8 surprises about insurance in Uruguay
We were shocked by some of the differences—good and bad—with the US and UK, regarding household, travel & business insurance in Uruguay.
2020: the best Uruguay wines in decades
Following a textbook harvest, experts and winemakers are heralding Uruguay wines of 2020 as some of the best in decades, reports sommelier Adriana Rossi.
Tannat for beginners
One in every three bottles of wine produced in Uruguay is a Tannat. What does Uruguay’s flagship wine taste like? Here’s a guide to get started, by locals.
Top things to do in winter in Uruguay
Between June and August, visit Uruguay for horse-riding, deserted beaches, great culture, live music, bonfire parties, winetasting & whale-watching.
Winter in Uruguay – sunny and 60° F out
The temperatures for winter in Uruguay (June-August) may look balmy. But you may be in for an unpleasant surprise if you don’t do your research. Start here.
Medicinal teas for coughs & colds
Uruguayans love their herbal remedies. When you have a cough or cold, here’s what to look for in the supermarket before going home to make a soothing brew.
“Uruguay is an eye of calm in a global storm”
This risk-management expert analyses the best countries for expats. Find out why he and his wife have just moved to Uruguay to live permanently.
Where is the best place to stay in Montevideo?
The neighbourhoods are all really different. Get a feel for the place that best fits you. We analyse the ‘thumbs up’ and ‘mehhh’ factors of each barrio.
Uruguay: Green leader worldwide
Uruguay has embraced renewable energy for economic reasons and ranks in the world’s top twenty green leaders, according to MIT.
Andes 1972 plane crash museum
The museum, in Montevideo, honours the survivors of the Andes plane crash. Yes, one of the greatest survival stories of the 20th century is Uruguayan.
Why Uruguayans celebrate Tourism Week – not Easter
40% of Roman Catholics live in Latin America but as usual Uruguay does its own thing. There’s complete separation of church and state for almost 100 years.
Uruguay: South American birding oasis
10 reasons why Uruguay is a great choice for nature tourism in general and birding in particular–especially in a pandemic.
5 amazing beaches in Rocha, Uruguay
Without a doubt, Rocha has some of the very best beaches in Uruguay. And they’re almost totally deserted for virtually ten months of the year.
Happy Saint David’s Day from your Welsh woman in Uruguay
I left my native Wales when I was just 18 but March 1, Saint David’s Day, is always a time when I think about my roots. Especially living here in Uruguay.
Uruguay is #1 democracy in Latin America
In a world where democracy is under threat, The Economist ranked Uruguay the most democratic country in Latin America and ranked it 15th in the world.
Es Mercat – The best fish restaurant in Montevideo
We wager Es Mercat is the very best fish and seafood restaurant in the whole of Montevideo. Ask the chef to choose what you eat, for the best experience.
Not just great culture. Montevideo has 10 fine beaches
The capital of Uruguay has beaches with fine white sand, great for paddling or swimming, kitesurfing, with fairgrounds, and wheel-chair access.
Carnival in Uruguay – what is murga?
Murga is an instantly recognisable musical style associated with carnival. It’s a uniquely Uruguayan phenomenon, with very distant roots in Cadiz, Spain.
6 reasons not to miss carnival in Montevideo
Virtually unknown to people outside of Uruguay, carnival in the capital Montevideo is one of the most authentic in the world. Start planning now for 2022.
After 12 years abroad, Uruguayan reports on Montevideo food scene
The food scene in New York City had turned Javier’s head. Would Montevideo mean having to trade great food for the luxury of time and money to enjoy it?
The night sky: Best places to stargaze in Uruguay
NASA-recognised astrophotographer Fefo Bouvier tells us about the night sky in the southern hemisphere and Uruguay’s best stargazing places.
Uruguay Festivals – Sea Goddess Day on February 2
This year the Government of Montevideo is urging Yemanjá sea goddess worshippers to avoid congregating–and to donate to local soup kitchens instead.
Academia Uruguay – Learn Spanish in Uruguay
If you’re planning to move to Uruguay, who better to learn Spanish with than native Uruguayan teachers? Online and face-to-face options.
Lobo Suelto – Best little foodtruck in the East
The best traditional food in Uruguay between the airport and the beach. Chivito, seafood and salads, all locally sourced — & veggies from their garden.
Los Nadies – Premium wine tasting in Montevideo
Your chance to taste some of the best Uruguay wines at the hand of one of the top three wine-makers in Uruguay at his home and winery minutes from downtown.
Arazá – Native Uruguay cuisine
Native Uruguay cuisine in Montevideo. Special events include monthly expeditions to El Prado park to identify local plants–and after you get to taste them.
Guru’Guay’s 2020
2020. Working in the travel sector, you can imagine how we were hit. Guru’Guay chews over the pivots to stay afloat & celebrates Uruguay’s ‘good’ pandemic.
José Ignacio: Tiny Uruguay town turned world’s hot beach spot
First Argentina’s rich & beautiful, then the Hearsts and Rockefellers. Just how did a rocky Uruguay peninsula with dirt roads become a jewel of the jetset?
Punta del Diablo – where hippie meets hip
A fishing town with dirt roads is one of Uruguay’s most popular beaches. Is it the brightly-painted cabins, sweeping unspoilt beaches or the hippie-chic?
Cabo Polonio – Lost island in a sea of dunes
Deserted beaches, rocky islands heaving with baying seals & tiny colourful shacks. Cabo Polonio, Uruguay is unforgettable.
What is the average salary in Uruguay?
I often get asked what salaries are like in Uruguay. If you have any idea of the cost of living, you may be surprised. Figures from July 2020.
5 Uruguayan films you must see
Uruguayan movies tend to be slow burners with lots of critical acclaim. The Guru invites you to put your feet up and enjoy five of the best Uruguayan films.
Gay Montevideo
Montevideo – the capital of the friendliest country in South America. And it’s Uruguay’s version of ‘Pride’–known as the Diversity March–this Friday!
Cabaña Verónica – Great steak & Uruguayan asado
The Port Market—Disneyland for carnivores—is not to be missed but avoid tourist traps! At Verónica’s, you’re guaranteed great steak & Uruguayan asado.
Il Tano Cucina – pasta & seafood in Punta del Diablo
One of the best seafood restaurants in Punta del Diablo & open all year round. Family-run, it’s minutes from the ocean & specialises in home-made pastas.
Uruguay’s new tax residency requirements
Uruguay’s new government wants to attract immigration. Their first move, on tax residency, is aimed at neighboring Argentines but could benefit you too.
Can I apply for residency from outside Uruguay?
If moving to Uruguay is your #1 goal but you don’t meet current entry requirements, there may be another option–residency via a Uruguayan consulate.
The extraordinary murals of 25 de agosto
The sleepiest little towns in Uruguay can be full of surprises. This one just an hour from Montevideo is home to over 100 murals by a French artist.
10 typical Uruguay foods you must try
Typical Uruguay foods — chivito, tira de asado, pamplona, torta frita, alfajor, dulce de leche… We go through each one, what it is and how you say it.
Latest Guru’Guay Top Picks
Guru’Guay only recommends restaurants, hotels and people who absolutely love Uruguay & what they do
Doña Martina – 56 types of Uruguay empanadas
From classic beef to salmon & cream cheese, to delicious vegan to chocolate and nutella—Doña Martina serves up this Uruguay street food daily.
Wine Explorers – Private Uruguay wine tours
Private Uruguay wine tours & tastings. The unique wineries will be the highlight of your travels. Plus monthly group excursions for expats.
Bar Montevideo al Sur – Historic bar & cafe
If you’re looking for a traditional Montevideo bar with a community-feel, good honest food, great cocktails and a friendly vibe, this is your place.
Baco – Montevideo’s top wine restaurant
A French bistro with probably the longest wine list in the city and multiple by-the-glass choices is one of the best new Montevideo restaurants by far.
Pantera – Montevideo’s 1st bread club
A new Montevideo bakehouse selling ‘bread and other stuff’. Bagels to DIE for. Their innovative club sends sourdough (& culture) direct to your door weekly.
Bar El Mingus – Chill Out Restobar & Tuesday Jazz
El Mingus is a one of the best restaurants in Montevideo—cool, contemporary, with the intimacy of an old-school bar. We love the great food & live music.
Verne – Fine dining in an aromatic herb garden
Outdoor dining in Verne, the star of a new restaurant scene on the coast a short drive from downtown Montevideo, is a feast for the senses.
Casa Flor – live the Uruguay coast like a local (VIP)
One of the very best hotels near Punta del Este, whose well-connected owners will give you access to the secrets of Uruguay’s coast most can only dream of.
Estación Penitente – Magical hill-top restaurant in Minas, Uruguay
Overlooking Uruguay’s Sierras de Minas, with views reminiscent of Greece. Traditional cooking, Uruguayan BBQ & wild boar. Day trip from Montevideo & Punta.
Big Bang Nature Stays – Bohemian beach domes
Unique ocean-front location to reconnect with nature—with luxury touches—on one of Uruguay’s most deserted beaches in Maldonado.
Es Mercat – The best fish restaurant in Montevideo
We wager Es Mercat is the very best fish and seafood restaurant in the whole of Montevideo. Ask the chef to choose what you eat, for the best experience.
Mobility LC – Outstanding Uruguay relocation specialist
Uruguay residency, work permits, bank accounts, citizenship & whatever else you as expats in Uruguay need to make your landing smooth.
Academia Uruguay – Learn Spanish in Uruguay
If you’re planning to move to Uruguay, who better to learn Spanish with than native Uruguayan teachers? Online and face-to-face options.
Team Haverkate – recommended Uruguay real estate brokers
Team Haverkate specialise in finding dream Uruguay real estate for expats. They speak English, German, French and Dutch and can now offer you virtual tours.
Estancia El Ceibo – deepest Uruguay with minimal travel
It can take hours along pot-holed roads to reach the best estancias in Uruguay. This ranch, virtually unchanged since 1849, is just an hour from Montevideo.
Lobo Suelto – Best little foodtruck in the East
The best traditional food in Uruguay between the airport and the beach. Chivito, seafood and salads, all locally sourced — & veggies from their garden.
Los Nadies – Premium wine tasting in Montevideo
Your chance to taste some of the best Uruguay wines at the hand of one of the top three wine-makers in Uruguay at his home and winery minutes from downtown.
Arazá – Native Uruguay cuisine
Native Uruguay cuisine in Montevideo. Special events include monthly expeditions to El Prado park to identify local plants–and after you get to taste them.
Il Tano Suites – 420-friendly Punta del Diablo hotel
Your suite with private deck, close to secluded beaches, next to Pdd’s best restaurant. Probably the best value of all Punta del Diablo hotels.
Cabaña Verónica – Great steak & Uruguayan asado
The Port Market—Disneyland for carnivores—is not to be missed but avoid tourist traps! At Verónica’s, you’re guaranteed great steak & Uruguayan asado.
Il Tano Cucina – pasta & seafood in Punta del Diablo
One of the best seafood restaurants in Punta del Diablo & open all year round. Family-run, it’s minutes from the ocean & specialises in home-made pastas.
Stella Lorenzo Arq. – property appraisal and inspiration
An independent appraisal by a recommended professional with 20+ years experience will take the risk out of buying property in Uruguay.
Salón No. 3 – La Barra cuisine
New La Barra restaurant in a vintage furniture store. Pull up a chair in the kitchen as the chef preps just-caught fish & his home-grown organic veggies.
Hotel Solís – historic, coastal B&B
Be a part of history. One of the best hotels in Uruguay—and British spy HQ!— nestling by Maldonado beaches and wineries, is being lovingly restored.
Mark Teuten & Associates – Lawyers & notaries
Finding an English speaking Uruguay immigration lawyer who can advise on real estate, employment law, & mediation, aswell, can be a huge relief.
Adriana Rossi – your personal wine shopper in Montevideo
Can you believe this? A personalised wine delivery service in Montevideo. Adriana selects Uruguay wine to your taste and budget & delivers to your home.
Private consultations: Is Uruguay a great fit for you?
Are you considering a move to Uruguay—full-time, sabbatical or snow-birding—and want expert advice specific to your circumstances?
Alma Historica – art nouveau boutique hotel in Montevideo
Set off the most romantic park in Montevideo, Alma Historica is a truly boutique hotel. You’ll love the views of the Old City from the roof-top hot tub.
Coronavirus & Uruguay
What you need to know to stay safe
LATEST Uruguay borders open to travellers
Uruguay opens for travel from November 1 with just a few general restrictions. Find out what they are, and rejoice—no more quarantine!
Uruguay travel options for unvaccinated visitors
If you have not been vaccinated against Covid-19, you can now enter Uruguay with a permit to travel from the government.
Which Covid vaccines are in Uruguay
Uruguay has done well to obtain vaccines from three different manufacturers, and so cover the needs of the entire population.
70% fully-vaccinated in Uruguay—and getting boosters
It happened on the eve of Independence Day—almost as if it had been planned. Uruguay’s vaccination rate is third in the world, and cases plummeting.
Vaccines are controlling the pandemic in Uruguay
The government banked on a fast vaccination campaign to control the pandemic in Uruguay. The data shows the strategy is working.
Flights to Uruguay during Covid-19
The latest data on flights and flying to Uruguay from the US, Europe and within Latin America while the borders are closed. Updated August 18 2021.
Uruguay travel – borders open November 1
Thanks to a strong vaccination campaign, Uruguay will open its borders to all travellers from November 1st. Travellers must show proof of vaccination.
Uruguay covid cases back to 2020 levels
As Reuters reports Uruguay covid cases are down to 5% of its peak, we run you through the numbers and maps we access every day here in Uruguay.
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The Guru’Guay Guide to Uruguay
Beaches, ranches and wine country
The Guru’Guay Guide to Montevideo
All you need to know about Montevideo
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The Guru’Guay Guide to Montevideo
Your handy directory to Uruguay travel & living
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So, who’s the Guru?
At 22, Karen A Higgs found herself stranded in Mexico City airport with just a pocket Spanish dictionary for company. Since then, she’s lived most of her life in Latin America.
In 2000, she moved to Uruguay and promptly fell in love with this most understated and “European” of Latin American nations.
Her renowned Guru’Guay guidebooks are praised for their unconventionality and their passion and soul.
So, who’s the Guru?
At 22, Karen A Higgs found herself stranded in Mexico City airport with just a pocket Spanish dictionary for company. Since then, she’s lived most of her life in Latin America.
In 2000, she moved to Uruguay and promptly fell in love with this most understated and “European” of Latin American nations.
Her renowned Guru’Guay guidebooks are praised for their unconventionality and their passion and soul.
Private 1:1 about living in Uruguay
Your opportunity to have private one-on-one time with Uruguay’s foremost English-language expert.
5 reasons to put Uruguay on your bucket list
See for yourself why everyone loves Uruguay
Uruguay, nestling between Brazil and Argentina is off-the-radar to Europeans and North Americans. But Brazilians and Argentines have been flocking there for years.
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