Trekking in Uruguay – El Gavilán, Valle del Lunarejo nature reserve
Trekking, horseback riding, nature photography, birding in one of the most outstanding protected areas in Uruguay, Valle del Lunarejo.
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A helter skelter was the first fairground ride to appear on the banks of the River Plate 125 years ago. It wasn’t until over a decade later that the 42 hectare park, initially called Parque Costera and then Parque Urbano, was landscaped by two French architects. By 1904, there was an artificial lake, a fairytale-style castle, and a bar selling… fresh milk!
Nowadays Parque Rodó (pronounce it par-kay roh-DOH), which is also the name of the surrounding neighbourhood, is the barrio with most statues and monuments in the whole of the city. Confucius looks out over the beach. Neptune nestles under a low-hanging tree. And a host of other attractions for all ages.
The waterside funfair (juegos mecánicos in Spanish) is a step back in time. You have not ridden such a kitsch ghost train since you were 10. But you will have to make it quick. The Montevideo government and business community don’t understand that people will pay to experience nostalgia.
The Ghost Train (tren fantasma) was sold off in 2014. The helter skelter was sold off a year earlier. Let’s hope that the iconic Gusano Loco (which translated literally as the Crazy Worm) doesn’t go the same way.
Off season the funfair opens on weekends and public holidays only.
A children’s funfair for the under 10s is on the other side of the park (the corner of Blvr Artigas and 21 de setiembre) and opens during the day. The roundabouts and mini Gran Prix track are charming. Our son took seven friends on seven rides there for his seventh birthday.
There is a street market on Sundays but it primarily sells cheap clothing and is mainly of interest to locals. There may be interesting street musicians playing around the lake though – or even ON the lake.
Also on Sundays there is a small farmers market on 21 de setiembre between the Defensor Sporting Club and the children’s funfair if you are looking for economically-priced organic produce including fruit, vegetables, cheeses, preserves and ecological household cleaning products.
On Sunday early evening, join La Melaza, Montevideo’s only all-woman candombe drumming troupe (cuerda de tambores), at their weekly open-air drumming session. Join them just before sundown on the corner of on Blanes and Gonzalo Ramirez streets by the steps. Their route takes them along San Salvador. Just follow the sound of drums.
TIP Don’t attend the drumming if you are on a tight schedule. Drumming processions are lazy, impromptu affairs. They start when everyone is gathered, not at a particular time. They process slowly. Half way through everyone stops for a break, buys beer at a store to drink on the pavement, has a smoke…. until they get started up again and process back to the starting point. (Join La Melaza on Facebook)
On February 2 each year don’t miss the Imenjá celebrations – a special day of worship of the Goddess of the Sea. The best place to go is Playa Ramirez, the beach at Parque Rodó, before sundown. This is part of Afro-uruguayan heritage and the Umbanda religion practiced in Brazil and Uruguay.
Check out the series of photos I took for our guesthouse page which also include photos of the Mercosur Building in the background.
It is 45-50 minutes walk along the rambla from the Ciudad Vieja. And the same from the beach at Pocitos.
Numerous buses go to the park which also has a terminus there next to the casino.
Cover photo: Vince Alongi
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Trekking in Uruguay – El Gavilán, Valle del Lunarejo nature reserve
Trekking, horseback riding, nature photography, birding in one of the most outstanding protected areas in Uruguay, Valle del Lunarejo.
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3 Responses
HI, this site is a total revelation thank you. I am trying to plan a trip to meet my husband who is sailing into Punte de Este around the 10 th April. I will be flying into Montevideo with our 2 kids, 9 and 7, and am thinking we will go direct (visa bus?) to pde for 4 nights, then onto Jose Ignacio for 2 nights, Montevideo for 2 nights, stay on an estancia for 2 nights (finca Piedra), colonia for a day then back to Montevideo. Do you mind advising us on whether this sounds feasible via bus and do you have rooms that can accommodate 4 of us please?
Thanks, Rachel! I love being a “total revelation” 🙂 Your plans sound great. I will write to you directly via email about staying with us in Casa Sarandi. All the best and thanks again, Karen