Uruguay Festivals – Sea Goddess Day on February 2

It’s Yemanjá Day on February 2. Don’t miss this special festival of the Goddess of the Sea at Playa Ramírez in the Parque Rodó neighbourhood.

By Karen A Higgs

Holidays & Festivals

Last updated on January 26, 2023

It’s Yemanjá Day on February 2. Don’t miss this special festival of the Goddess of the Sea. The best place to watch the celebrations in Montevideo is Playa Ramírez in the Parque Rodó neighbourhood at sundown.

The celebrations are part of the Umbanda religion which is practiced in Uruguay and Brazil.

Umbanda is a South American religion blending African traditions brought over by enslaved West Africans in the 1800s* with Roman Catholicism and indigenous American beliefs.

Yemanjá (there are multiple spellings but you pronounce it im-an-zh-AA) is one of the Orishas – or manifestations of God– of Umbanda. She is the Queen of the Ocean, the patron saint of fishermen and the survivors of shipwrecks, the feminine principle of creation, and the spirit of moonlight.

Find out about other Uruguayan holidays and festivals

So what happens in the Yemanjá festival in Montevideo

Crowds start to gather in Playa Ramírez around 6pm. They will stay until long after sundown when the drumming and frenetic whirling of the dancing worshippers reaches its height.

Worshippers sit waiting for the sun to go down before they launch their boat into the waves. Later they will dance in a circle, whirling around often until they fall into a trance.

Worshippers – and the curious– dress in full white dresses or skirts. They bow to the Sea Goddess and prostrate themselves on the sand.

They walk into the sea to make offerings, usually piled onto little boats which they set sail, then as a mark of respect they return to the coast without turning their backs until they leave the water completely.

The elegantly lit backdrop of the art-deco Mercosur building after the sun disappears makes the panorama even more surreal.

Guru'Guay Guide to Montevideo

The only guide to Montevideo, Uruguay, by an author based full-time in Uruguay. Mentioned in the New York Times, BBC, National Geographic, Le Figaro, Decanter and more.

Buy now

AMAZON BESTSELLERS

Most Uruguayans are here as sightseers too

Serious Umbanda worshippers present probably number in the low hundreds.

The majority of people come for the spectacle, though they may take part by sending their own little offering out on the water or getting a ritual “cleansing”.

The regular Uruguayan ladies who had put together the offering pictured right were delighted that I took photos and asked if I liked it. “We come every year,” they said.

[Note: Uruguay is remarkable for being one of the few Latin American nations with a long time separation of church and state.]

Stocking up on gifts and the clean-up

Hundreds of stands spring up selling mementos and offerings. It’s a great opportunity to get some kitsch gifts to take back home – your very own sea goddess in a bottle anyone?

One thing that is kind of depressing about the celebration is the amount of non-biodegradable rubbish left on the beach and swirling in the water.

The local government is trying to build awareness about the need to substitute polystyrene boats for ones made of biodegradable materials, but the uptake is slow.

If you want to rid yourself of your indignation at the wanton littering, join the clean-up which starts 7am the day after.

How to get to Playa Ramírez

Take any bus or a taxi to Parque Rodo and then walk down to the beach. You will hear the drums.
Find Playa Ramírez on Google Maps
Walk along the rambla for about 30 minutes from the centre of Pocitos or 45 minutes from the Ciudad Vieja (Old City)
Oh, and have great fish and chips at a small stand overlooking the beach while you are there

* 8% of Uruguayans declared they had African roots in the 2011 census.

See more photos of the Yemenjá celebrations on Flickr

Latest

Travel to Uruguay: Medical insurance mandatory

There’s been some confusion around whether it’s necessary to have health insurance to enter Uruguay since recent changes to travel requirements. We explain.

Vacations in Uruguay: Beaches, classic car races and a bargain therapy session

My 9-day vacation in Uruguay: Intrepid reader writes

Beaches, classic car races and a bargain therapy session. We were delighted to get this email from one reader after his vacations in Uruguay.

Uruguay women first to get vote in Americas

The 1917 Constitution granted women the right to vote. Another Uruguay first. Though the story is of course more complicated.

I love Montevideo - candombe troupe - by Jimmy Baikovicius

Is Montevideo worth visiting

Montevideo is often overshadowed by Buenos Aires. Three well-travelled bloggers tell what made them fall in love with South America’s off-the-radar capital.

What do Uruguayans think about foreigners?

A 2023 survey reveals that Uruguayan attitudes to immigrants are very different to other polarised parts of the world.

Verne – Fine dining in an aromatic herb garden

Outdoor dining at Verne, five mins from the airport, is a surprising feast for the senses and will please everyone.

Montevideo Carnival 2023 dates

Uruguay carnival is back in 2023! The world’s longest carnival returns to Montevideo. We’ve got the when and where.

Smokewood Garzón – Magical 50-acre off-the-grid vacation rental

This magical 50-acre modern off-the-grid oasis is one of the best places to stay in Uruguay.

Uruguay Festivals – Sea Goddess Day on February 2

It’s Yemanjá Day on February 2. Don’t miss this special festival of the Goddess of the Sea at Playa Ramírez in the Parque Rodó neighbourhood.

Getting around: buses, taxis and walking

Getting around like a local. Flag down the bus—or it won’t stop. Don’t tip your taxi driver—but don’t expect him to load your luggage! Essential maps.