My 9-day vacation in Uruguay: Intrepid reader writes
Beaches, classic car races and a bargain therapy session. We were delighted to get this email from one reader after his vacations in Uruguay.
Montevideo is often overshadowed by Buenos Aires. With tons of culture and wonderful architecture but more laid-back and friendly, it’s time to experience the capital of Uruguay before it gets more well-known. Three well-travelled bloggers talk about what made them fall in love with South America’s still off-the-radar capital city. And share why Montevideo is well-worth visiting.
Montevideo is a city whose charms are not at first obvious but which soon reveal themselves given the chance. Often seen as a side trip of a couple of days from Buenos Aires, Montevideo is worth much more than that. The city boasts one of the best collections of art-deco buildings anywhere in the world, has a lively arts scene including a great theatre and live music programme, eclectic cafes and restaurants and some interesting museums - most of which are free to visit. But perhaps the city's best assets are its 25 kilometres of promenade water front and its exceptionally friendly people.”
I was blown away by Montevideo. It has that bohemian, artsy vibe that I love about San Telmo (the old tango neighbourhood of Buenos Aires) but you feel like you are in a beach town. I’d been through the city a number of times on my way to the beaches further east, but I’d never actually spent any time there. Big mistake.
What a charming city, especially if you have spent time in hectic Buenos Aires. It’s calmer, more laid back, and they take advantage of the river! In Montevideo, we saw kite surfers and families along the river’s beaches, people heading to the bars and cafes near the river to take in the sunset, and the massive rambla is perfect for cycling, roller-blading, getting in a run or just walking off all of the fabulous food and drink.”
I never thought I’d love Montevideo so much. I mean, I’ve never even heard of this little capital city until a few months ago.
I was a little apprehensive about coming here after a not-so-welcoming experience in BA. I was afraid that maybe since these cities are so close to each other, they would be just the same. Turns out, I couldn’t have been further from the truth. It’s true that there are a lot of similarities in that both are heavily European-influenced cultures and have somewhat similar cuisines, but they may as well be on completely different continents.
Montevideo is seriously cool, but I feel like it’s so overlooked.
Most people seem to think that it’s only worth a few days of your time. Our BA hosts thought we were CRAZY to be spending a month here. Because it’s small and boring, she said.
But though I’ve been here for almost three weeks now, I feel slightly panicked that I’ll be leaving next week and won’t see and do everything I want to.”
The Guru’Guay Guide to Montevideo is the first insider’s travel guide to Montevideo. As Montevideo is a city about which there’s very little written, especially in English and that’s current, you’ll be devouring its 140 pages.
Tell us below in the comments.
Photos: Jimmy Baikovicius
My 9-day vacation in Uruguay: Intrepid reader writes
Beaches, classic car races and a bargain therapy session. We were delighted to get this email from one reader after his vacations in Uruguay.
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Montevideo is often overshadowed by Buenos Aires. Three well-travelled bloggers tell what made them fall in love with South America’s off-the-radar capital.
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Getting around: buses, taxis and walking
Getting around like a local. Flag down the bus—or it won’t stop. Don’t tip your taxi driver—but don’t expect him to load your luggage! Essential maps.
Brisas de la Pedrera – Boutique hotel in Rocha
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Beaches, classic car races and a bargain therapy session. We were delighted to get this email from one reader after his vacations in Uruguay.
The 1917 Constitution granted women the right to vote. Another Uruguay first. Though the story is of course more complicated.
A 2023 survey reveals that Uruguayan attitudes to immigrants are very different to other polarised parts of the world.
Montevideo is the capital of the friendliest country in South America. Get to know Uruguay’s version of ‘Pride’—known as the Diversity March.
…and 5th friendliest in the world, says the Spartacus International Gay Guide. Yep, homosexuality has been legal here for EIGHTY years.
Despite its pint size population, Uruguay has one of the most successful national teams in footballing history.
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9 Responses
Hi everyone,
hello Karen,
so nice to read about Uruguay, many thanks for all the infos!
Unfortunately, I learned about your guid just to late – my husband, our daughter and I are already in Montevideo struggling hugely while trying to find a nice flat to rent… We do not speak any Spanish, so a local real estate agency could not help us either.
Our goal is to find a nice, tidy and quiet place, which would be easy to reach with a baby (she is only 6 months old) … We are desperate for any help and tips!
Many thanks in advance!
Warm regards,
Anastasia
Hi Anastasia, welcome to Uruguay! There are real estate agents who speak English. You can find some listed in our free guide, the Guru’Guia, which you can download for free. For short-term furnished rentals, most people use Airbnb. I’ll also email you a contact. A big hug, Karen
Does the carnival take place on February 28- March 1 also?
Yes. Check out my piece on carnival dates. — Enjoy! Karen
Spent the Summer of (no, not “69”) 77’/‘78 in Monte & UR and came back last year – why did I wait so long?? It’s even more beautiful now! Visuals aside, it’s the Uruguayos and, of course, some of the “Nuveau Uruguayos” – hola Guru, hola Christina (Uruguay Auténtico) – who welcome you with open arms that make all the difference! Not to forget a magic evening at the “Montevideo Wine Experience” or the great folks at the “Hotel Fauna”, Jeronimo & Soledad…Hasta la vista!
Just downloaded my copy and studying it like a textbook.Great tips and insight.I will be in Uruguay for 3 months July-Sept staying with my first partner who is Uruguayan.He has a beautiful place and land in Piriápolis but we will be traveling around Uruguay and spending time in Montevideo his birthplace.My only concern is your comment about flying from EZE to MVD on Aerolíneas Argentinas. I will be flying from Taiwan via Tokyo via Atlanta to Buenos Aires to Montevideo.If the flight is delayed or cancelled I will most likely have a nervous breakdown after so many hours of flying and layovers.I originally booked via GRU but could never get a straight answer from GOL,the Brazilian Consulate or any other source of information if in-transit passengers who hold US passports require a visa. The answers range from yes to maybe to not sure to better safe than sorry if your flight misses your connection to no need if less than 12 or 8 or 6 hours layover. I never heard of needing a visa for in-transit passengers anywhere in the world but you never know.Hope I arrive safely anyway.
Hi Robert – sorry to have given you the heebie geebies!! I am sure you will be fine. And yes, in transit you will not need a visa. Glad you are enjoying the book and looking forward to your feedback! If you need a place to stay in Montevideo do look us up (beforehand, we don’t accept drop ins) http://www.casasarandi.com. We can point you in the direction of great music and culture! Safe – and hassle-free -travels!
Hi again and thank you for your reply,
I am enjoying it even sent a copy to my Uruguayan friends who live there with yellow indications of what I would like to accomplish during my 3 month stay.This will include applying for my temporary cédula for which I am gathering all the details and paperwork that I will need.During time spent in Montevideo will surely visit your lovely hotel to say hello.My friends have several apartments in Montevideo that they bought through the years so I am sure that I will be able to use one of them during my stay.
Excellent news! All the best, K