Smokewood Garzón – Magical 50-acre off-the-grid vacation rental
This magical 50-acre modern off-the-grid oasis is one of the best places to stay in Uruguay.
Uruguay is one of the few places in the world where you don’t need to hire a boat or go on an expensive trip to watch whales. Between June and November you can watch them close-up from the beach itself as they swim north from the colder waters of Argentina to breed in the warm waters of Brazil passing Uruguay on the way.
The most common whales you are likely to see are southern right whales (known in Spanish as ballenas francas). It is also possible to see humpback whales.
These massive creatures are visible from beaches all along the coast of Maldonado and Rocha, particularly where the water is deep and so whales get really close to the coast (check out this amazing video where you really see the proximity). It is an incredible privilege to be able to sit on the beach and just watch whales playing only tens of meters away.
In the whale season, it’s not unusual to come across whales and dolphins (often referred to as ‘toninas’ locally) as you walk the beaches. This has happened to me many times (here I recount what happened one June when I was walking the beach Playa Grande in Punta del Diablo and here is the whale spurting).
Real-time sightings The best way to find out where to see whales is via real time updates in the Ballenas UY group on Telegram. There, thousands of Uruguay-based experts and members of the general public fascinated with whales share coordinates and videos or photos of sightings in real time. Remember these mammals are generally on the move so you need to get in your car and head to the spot as soon as you can. The group is in Spanish. If you have questions about what you read there, feel free to post a comment below.
Join the Ballenas UY group (this link will direct you to download or open the ‘Telegram’ app, open it from a mobile device —doesn’t seem to work on desktop)
The map above shows beaches in Maldonado and Rocha (blue circles) where it is possible to view whales. Several viewing platforms (torres de observacion) marked in red on the map. The platforms are free to use, and unattended.
There are a bunch of beaches and viewing points throughout Maldonado and Rocha but you double your chances at:
The law in Uruguay says that you need to keep at least 300 metres (that’s about one thousand feet) between yourself and a whale. So that means that potentially-harmful tourism ventures using small boats to trail the whales are not allowed.
Make sure you bring binoculars.
Most sources I have consulted say between July and November. However, someone who lives in Punta del Diablo has told me that they have seen whales during the month of June. So, if you want to improve your odds, come between August and November, but from June you may get lucky.
The best times to observe are the early hours of the morning and late in the day, when the waters are calm.
Look out for:
These handy tips provided by Descubriendo Uruguay. The page is in Spanish but you should check it out for photos of what you might observe.
So save yourself an expensive trip to Patagonia, watch the whales for free and know your viewing is completely unobtrusive to them.
The Ballena UY group on Telegram (find link above)
Uruguay is a whale and dolphin sanctuary – and that’s official
Photos: Uruguay in Photos
Smokewood Garzón – Magical 50-acre off-the-grid vacation rental
This magical 50-acre modern off-the-grid oasis is one of the best places to stay in Uruguay.
Uruguay Festivals – Sea Goddess Day on February 2
It’s Yemanjá Day on February 2. Don’t miss this special festival of the Goddess of the Sea at Playa Ramírez in the Parque Rodó neighbourhood.
Getting around: buses, taxis and walking
Getting around like a local. Flag down the bus—or it won’t stop. Don’t tip your taxi driver—but don’t expect him to load your luggage! Essential maps.
Montevideo Carnival 2023 dates
Uruguay carnival is back in 2023! The world’s longest carnival returns to Montevideo. We’ve got the when and where.
Brisas de la Pedrera – Boutique hotel in Rocha
Uruguay’s best beaches are in Rocha. La Pedrera is the best-kept beach town in Rocha. Here’s the La Pedrera hotel most foreigners prefer.
Mark Teuten & Associates – Lawyers & notaries
Finding an English speaking Uruguay immigration lawyer who can advise on real estate, employment law, & mediation, as well, can be a huge relief.
Uruguay’s Kentucky Derby – January 6
One of the best things to do in Montevideo is visit the horse races. Fun for the family and for architecture buffs the art-deco stadium. Fridays & Sundays.
How to avoid paying top dollar at the beach in Uruguay
Some beaches are just so darn popular. Tips for when & how to get best rates on hotels and rentals in Uruguay.
Montevideo over New Year? 5 things you need to know
Between Christmas & New Year, Montevideans leave town in droves. So what to do you do? There’s still the beaches, tango, fireworks and… water fights!
Great little car rental company in Uruguay
Shout-out for local car rental company, Mariño Sport, in Uruguay. I’ve been impressed by their great service and personal touch since 2010.
Some beaches are just so darn popular. Tips for when & how to get best rates on hotels and rentals in Uruguay.
Between Christmas & New Year, Montevideans leave town in droves. So what to do you do? There’s still the beaches, tango, fireworks and… water fights!
It’s a good idea to know when public holidays in Uruguay are as most shops close. Public transport is also limited but to a lesser extent.
Between June and August, visit Uruguay for horse-riding, deserted beaches, great culture, live music, bonfire parties, winetasting & whale-watching.
The temperatures for winter in Uruguay (June-August) may look balmy. But you may be in for an unpleasant surprise if you don’t do your research. Start here.
Under an hour from the capital lie some of the Uruguay’s best kept secrets, because most of the tourists are… Uruguayan.
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6 Responses
This link worked for me
https://t.me/joinchat/seZuLEvtFGlkZDdh
Hi guruguay,
I try to use your telegram link for whales. But it seems the link doesn’t work.
And on telegram I can’t find the group. Do you know if they still exist.
Greetings Eric
Hey Eric, they totally exist. I check them out all the time. Best, best — Karen
Hi Eric, please try accessing the link from your mobile phone. It appears the link doesn’t work from a desktop. Thanks for alerting us! — Karen
Hello Guruguay,
We are Sofie & Mathias from Belgium and are going to be in Uruguay the first week of November.
We are still looking for a good instancia to experience “instancia tourism’. we prefer it to be on the way from Rivera to Montevideo, but we prefer closer to Tucuarembo than to Montevideo :-).
Do you have suggestions for us?
gracias!
Sofie & Mathias
Hi Sofie and Mathias, sorry I took a while to get back to you. Yes, I do!! If you haven’t arranged anything yet, then I would recommend you check out my Guru’Guay Guide to Uruguay: Beaches, Ranches and Wine Country
on Amazon. It has eight different estancias (ranches) described in detail and you can decide which one you prefer. All the best, Karen