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Early 2024, a press conference holds their breath when a shrivelled old man announces that he has cancer. “More than once in my life, Death came prowling around my bed, but she kept her distance. This time, it seems she’s coming with her scythe at the ready—we’ll see what happens.” An entire country stands still for a moment, they can see, as clear as he can, that his days are numbered.
Almost a year later, same old man, now once again in front of dozens of cameras announces that he knows his life his over. “This is as far as I go. My time is up now. Honestly, I’m dying. And a warrior has earned the right to rest.” He admitted on an interview. Tuesday May 13, Pepe Mujica has died.
Rarely have I resented the English language as deeply as I do today. Translating Pepe Mujica’s words—delivered in his signature measured cadence and sly wit, feels like stripping them of meaning, of feeling, of soul. His countless idioms and sayings, his rustic accent and that distinctive rural ‘s’—aspirated like wind—marked him unmistakably as a man of the Uruguayan countryside.
Born in 1935, in Montevideo. José Mujica served as the president of Uruguay from 2010 to 2015. A farmer turned guerrilla fighter, he was imprisoned and tortured from 1972 to 1985 by the military, which staged a coup in 1973.
He was called “the world’s poorest president” by the BBC—both for donating 90% of his presidential salary to charity and for refusing to abandon his simple farm homestead for the presidential palace while in office. Known popularly as El Pepe, Mujica was not universally appreciated in his home country—for his guerrilla background, for his undeniable rusticity (he had to be forced into a jacket as president, and wore just the one repeatedly). But noone can deny that on a personal level, he practised what he preached. His authenticity and progressive vision turned Uruguay into a global case study during his presidency and beyond.
Pepe never held back when questioning capitalism’s obsession with hoarding wealth, and whether this actually contributed to happiness. His down-to-earth philosophy won him respect from the media, who couldn’t get enough of his heart to heart interviews and undeniable wisdom.
His government legalised same-sex marriage, abortion before the twelfth week and marijuana. His presidential period was the second of three terms won by the Frente Amplio (from 2005 to 2020), a progressive party party’s political platform focused on reducing poverty and inequality and promoted environmental policies and renewable energy. By the end of his term, nearly 95% of Uruguay’s electricity was being generated from renewable sources.
Like most Uruguayan presidents, he lived his life as a normal citizen, without hordes of bodyguards surrounding him unlike most other world leaders. In 2015, Uruguayan mechanic Gerhald Acosta was hitching a ride home from his work place near the coast. “About 25 or thirty cars had passed me and noone stopped,” Acosta told Uruguayan paper, El Observador.
Acosta had been on the roadside for over an hour when a car with official licence plates followed by a regular car pulled up. A man got out of the second car and asked where Acosta was going. Then he said that they could give him a ride and that he should get into the car in front – the one with the official plates.
“When I got in, I thought to myself – I know that woman,” said Acosta.
It was Lucía Topolansky, senator and First Lady, sitting in the back of the car with Manuela, infamous three-legged First Mutt. President Pepe Mujica was in the front seat. “When I got out, I thanked them a lot,” Acosta said. “After all, not many people will pick up someone on the road—much less a president.”
As the protagonist of many stories, Pepe Mujica has been extensively featured in the media. Emir Kusturica, film director and musician produced a film on the life of former Uruguayan president, and ex guerrilla, José Mujica, available on Netflix. El Pepe: A Supreme Life is a quaint celebration of an old man’s life.
This film by Kusturica focuses not only on Pepe’s political activism but his life-long love affair with Lucía, who he met during their time in the guerrilla. Lucía is an important politician in her own right, who served as Uruguay’s first female vice president.
Pepe’s past as a guerrilla—who was captured and held in solitary confinement, including years at the bottom of a well, during Uruguay’s military dictatorship (1973–85)—is the subject of another film that can be seen on Netflix: A Twelve Year Night.
In 2018, Pepe found himself in the Venice Film Festival alongside household names like Lady Gaga and Ryan Gosling receiving a standing ovation. “I’m as out of place as a dog in a bowling match,” he confessed in his typical low-key style to local media.
Namasté — Vegetarian restaurant in Montevideo
Namasté is more than just a vegetarian restaurant in Montevideo. This colourful, family-run spot has been serving vegetarian and vegan food since 2008. And the food is only part of the experience. Come for a relaxed meal, stay for the atmosphere, the friendly service and the chance to slow down for a while.
Dance tango in Uruguay. Whether a complete newbie or you already dance, the tango scene in Montevideo is a great way to make friends.
Estancia Los Plátanos – Authentic 6th generation ranch
Venture into deep Uruguay to Estancia Los Platanos, a working ranch. Just 3 guestrooms—and there’s a gorgeous indoor pool.
Nominate your favourites for the 2027 Montevideo Guru’Guay guide
Do you love a business in the capital that absolutely MUST be in our next best selling Montevideo guidebook?
Ignacio Fuentes, RE/MAX – Recommended Montevideo realtor
Montevideo real estate made easy—foreigners trust this realtor for smooth, reliable rentals and property purchases.
Estancia El Cangüé – Cattle & roses in Paysandú
Home to Uruguay’s biggest rose collection, this 200 year west Uruguay estancia is the perfect destination for outdoor adventure or a wedding.
Martín Pescador – Sierras ranch 1 hr from ocean
Just an hour inland from the beaches of Punta and José Ignacio, the perfect Uruguay estancia, horse riding and trekking.
Uruguay LGBT rights – A trailblazer for over a century
Did you know Uruguay is among the most LGBT-friendly countries worldwide? Small nation. Big equality record.
TEFL Uruguay: new qualification for foreigners and Uruguayans to teach English abroad
TEFL Uruguay comes to Montevideo in 2027: Four-week face-to-face training for foreigners and English-fluent locals.
Expats in Uruguay spill the beans: What life is really like
We interview foreigners in Uruguay who moved here from principally English-speaking countries so you can learn from their mistakes.
Did you know Uruguay is among the most LGBT-friendly countries worldwide? Small nation. Big equality record.
Uruguay makes history once again. Euthanasia in Uruguay is now legal. We learn what went on behind the scenes from the most visible campaigner.
I’ve lived all over the world. Here’s my evaluation based on my experience living and travelling in Uruguay for the last 20+ years.
Cannabis in Uruguay decoded: How legal weed works—from pharmacy scans to 420 culture—its surprising stats and real social impact
A member of the Guru’Guay team shares her great-aunt’s story, highlighting the dictatorship’s lasting impact on Uruguayans.
Uruguay is known for its progressive laws and society. So how come it fell under a dictatorship? Guru’Guay explains.
