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Checking out authentic candombe in Uruguay, you’ll want to go to a street rehearsal. Where to go, how it works and what to do—and what not to do—once you are there.
On any night of any day of the year on the moonlit streets of Montevideo, you can run into a comparsa (as troupes of candombe drummers and dancers are known) practising for the next carnival.
So if you hear the familiar ta ta ta ta-ta, head over to the crowd and experience the real Uruguay.
At the start, a fire is started and the drum skins are warmed to tighten them (see photo above). People mill around, usually buying litre bottles of beer from the closest kiosko, hanging out on the pavement, smoking.
Once the drums are ready and everyone is gathered (this takes some time, don’t go if you’re not prepared to be patient), the comparsa drummers line up, the dancers get out the front, and the drums strike up.
The comparsa will parade slowly (very slowly) down the street, usually for 8 blocks or so. Cars will stop for the parade. Once the comparsa reaches their end point (wherever that may be), they take a break. Usually a fire is relit for the drums. Everyone gets more beer.
Twenty minutes or so later, the comparsa regroups, the drums strike up again, and everyone processes back to the starting point.
This one I filmed on the streets of Palermo during winter time, with months to go till carnival.
The comparsas are part of everyday life here in Uruguay. Meaning, everyone knows everyone else so they will already know that you are not part of the group. However everyone including neighbours loves a comparsa, so enjoy being part of a unique community experience.
DO
DON’T
Photo: Travis Alber
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2 Responses
Hi Karen, I am busy planning my (and partners) independent trip to Uruguay and Argentina and trying to determine what there is available to see/experience in Uruguay over new year. We arrive Colonia on 29/12 and leaving Montevideo on 03/01. Appreciate Carnival is too far off but hoping to get to experience comparsa some how. Is there a way of knowing when one occurs? Thanks Di
Hi Dianne, yes, there’ll be comparsas out every night as Carnival will be less than a month away.